 |
 |
| The planks were placed on top of each other and aligned so
that they match as closely as possible. I took decking screws and screwed the planks
together in three places. |
Next I took my plane and faired the sides of the
planks to make them match exactly. While doing this I was careful not to create any
dips or swoops in my lofting lines. |
 |
 |
| Half way through the process I took a few minutes to sharpen
my plane blade. I use Japanese wetstones to sharpen my plane blades. |
The next step is to mark the chine sew lines for
the keel seam. I did this with a compass and made the line 1/8 inch wider than the
thickness of the planks, or 1/2 inch. This line goes around the top and bottoom of
the plank, but not where the transome will be attached. |
 |
 |
| Once the chine sew lines were drawn, I marked
where the holes through which the planking will be wired together were to be drilled.
The marks are spaced 2" apart for the first foot on each end of the plank, and
6" apart in the center section. |
After the marks were in place I used an
1/8" drill bit to drill the holes through both bottom planks. |
 |
 |
| I removed the screws, flipped the planks, and put a 45 degree
bevel halfway through the planking on the insides of the bottoms of the planks. This
will allow more of a "wetted" surface for the glue when the planks are joined. |
Next, I made up a wiring kit. I used rebar
wire and made a few dozen 6" segments. |
 |
 |
| The wires were put through the holes in the keel seam and
twisted together to the point of being snug, but not drum tight. |
The fully wired keel seam. |